Tells a story – tick
Owner managed – tick.
Cultural conservation – tick
Haveli Dharampura (and its new sister act, Golden Haveli) are the only luxury heritage hotels located in the very heart of Old Delhi. I’m going to get the elephant out of the room straight away. Old Delhi can be a baptism of fire for first timers to India. Landing in India after a long flight, driving across town and winding up in the very heart of Old Delhi amidst crowds and noise and seeming chaos, is an assault on the senses, to say the least. It can be overwhelming and (as I do) I did get chatting to some new arrivals who genuinely wondered what they’d done! BUT, give them a good night’s sleep, a good breakfast (I had breakfast delicacies I’d not seen before, typical Old Delhi fayre) and a good guide to go out and explore with and the world looks like a different place. It is then that the magic of Haveli Dharampura kicks in.
From a storytelling and journey perspective, it’s crucial to recognize what often gets overlooked in the annals of history. Shah Jahan, the visionary behind the Taj Mahal, was in fact a prolific builder whose legacy shaped the very essence of Old Delhi. He is often portrayed by some, as the man who built the Taj and then sat opposite it, imprisoned in Agra Fort mourning his wife for the rest of his life. But no, he went on to found Shahjahanabad (Now Old Delhi), oversaw the construction of the Red Fort and then went on to create the Jama Masjid. The man’s vision and architectural prowess knew no bounds! It wasn’t until 26 years after the Taj was begun, as his health began to deteriorate, that he was imprisoned by his son, in Agra Fort. Getting to know Old Delhi sets the scene for traveling on to Agra.
A stay at Haveli Dharampura allows guests to trace the chronology, and experience the grandeur of the Mughal era firsthand. It is like portal which transports you into this bygone era. From its rooftop, you can gaze out over Old Delhi, the imposing fort and the minarets of the mosque, and the intricate network of streets and bazaars. Then, grab one of their guides and head out on a walking tour to explore. These monuments are right on the doorstep and so, mere hop, skip and a jump from your door, oh okay, this is Old Delhi so there may be a few speedy sidesteps too, and within 2 minutes you are gazing in wonder at the largest mosque of India.
Once you’ve had your fill of the chaos, and photographing astounding electrical wiring, Haveli Dharampura serves as a sanctuary, a place to retreat & recharge from the chaos however, it doesn’t end there. The hotels’ in house curated recreation of Old Delhi experiences such as witnessing pigeon flying and trying kite flying from the roof rather cleverly help to keep the cultural vibe alive.
The rooftop restaurant of Haveli Dharampura deserves special mention. Where else can you dine on exquisite Mughlai cuisine while gazing out at the domes and minarets of Old Delhi? As the sun sets and the call to prayer echoes across the city, the magic of Shahjahanabad comes alive in a way that no history book could ever capture – it is rather special. This is further enhanced on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays when Kathak dance performances take place under the perfectly restored archways. Mesmerizing and memorable and guaranteed to be a crowd pleaser and end up on instagram!
Credit for Haveli Dharampura and now Golden Haveli needs to be given to Mr. Goel and journey of fate, dedication and restoration. In fact, his story needs its own post because, while perhaps less grandiose than Shah Jahan’s architectural feats, it is no less impressive in its own right. His passion for Old Delhi, preservation, attention to detail, and commitment to authenticity and storytelling have not only saved a piece of history but have also created a living, breathing testament to the enduring spirit of Old Delhi.
It was also interesting for me to see how a stay at Haveli Dharampura changed guest perceptions. We know that Old Delhi is overwhelming and intense but after a couple of days, guests I’d met who’d been overwhelmed on arrival, now had a newfound appreciation for its complexity, its history, and for some, its enduring charm!
It is my humble conclusion that Dharampura or Golden Haveli aren’t just hotels, they portray a journey through time, are a celebration of heritage, they provide a bridge between worlds, are a keeper of stories, and offer a beacon of hope for the preservation of India’s rich cultural heritage.
And when you put it like that, its worth mentioning that both Shahjahan and Vijay Goel for have been rewarded with UNESCO status, Shahjahan for the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort and Vijay Goel for Haveli Dharampura! What more convincing do you need?
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