Nepal is renowned (aside from trekking) for its three main destinations of Kathmandu, Chitwan and Pokhara. As with many destinations these days, increasing population and tourism focusing on mainstream destinations means that they are now busy places to visit. On our recent fam trip with RARE Hotels, we set out to see if it was still possible to have extraordinary and in some cases, exclusive experiences without the crowds that plague many busy places. And we discovered far more than expected!
The Nanee, Bhaktapur
Bhaktapur is usually a half day destination at best, a quick visit to the potters and main square and clients are scuttled back off to Kathmandu. Founders, Ajay and Shailaja, had told me it was so much more but to discover this one had to stay in Bhaktapur. One thing’s for sure, they weren’t wrong. Bhaktapur is a medieval kingdom dating back to the 12th Century, and walking through it even today, this is apparent.
Its extraordinary architecture, people performing pujas each morning and evening, a temple on every corner and inbetween, festivals happen virtually daily, morning food markets line its streets, virtually no traffic (in the old town). It is like stepping into a living heritage museum, only this is real life.
What enhances all this are the wonderful experiences, culinary, walks and activities that the team at The Nanee have curated which bring an understanding to all that you are seeing in a fun, informative and interesting way.
This was my 6th visit to Nepal and I’ve never seen Kathmandu in this light. I’m convinced!
Sanctuary Resort, Chitwan National Park.
It doesn’t take much to persuade me to visit a jungle and Chitwan was one of my first back in 1999! I know they talk of over tourism but compared to India I always find Chitwan much quieter, with far fewer jeeps with a variety of experiences.
For starters one has to get a boat across to the park to head off on jeep safaris or walking safaris and then, there are evening boat rides heading towards an invariably spectacular sunset and the obligatory sundowners.
Sanctuary Chitwan, specifically designed to have low key architecture to blend in, is located close to one of the very few remaining traditional Tharu Villages and they have a great relationship with the community. In addition, they take you on walks to the village and nearby tribal museum to help you to understand the local culture and life for the locals around the park.
The team, headed up by Amit and Tulsi (a real character if ever there was one) are an efficient and friendly bunch and their knowledge of the wildlife and park is second to none.
In terms of sightings, well having a hefty male rhino running toward the jeep will long remain in my memory, as will the seven Great Hornbills in flight!
Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, Pokhara.
Location, location, location, and I doubt there are few locations more spectacular for a hotel than the one chosen by those very clever founders of Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge. It is, quite simply, spectacular.
We arrived under the cover of clouds, but then, as if by divine intervention, they lifted in time for sunset. I’d forgotten, though goodness knows how, how the setting sun reflects on Phewa Lake in the valley below, rendering it a spectacular shade akin to 24 carat gold. Dragonflies flit as eagles soar on thermals, and the mighty Machapuchare stands sentinel right in your view point. You can’t miss it! In the morning, on a clear day, it is even reflected in the pool. I mean, I challenge anyone to come up with a better location than this. Seriously, email me!
At the point when one has finally run out of superlatives, only by being rendered speechless, one of the wonderful team will appear (in their defence, not even looking smug at their fortune of living and working in such a place) with a plate of snacks, cake and a pot of tea, with a gentle, ‘gin and tonic madam?’ sounding as almost a whisper on the breeze.
Of course then there’s dinner, convivial chat and a game of Bagh-Chal (tiger goat to you and me) to finish off the evening.
We did go down to Pokhara main, the group wanted to see other hotels, and then, after 30 mins on the main drag, decided against it and back up the hill we went. Then followed a chat about sustainability and how TMPL has also focused on this since inception 25 years ago.
The following day saw early morning birding (my highlight – a male & female scarlet minivet in brilliant red and gold swooping around), delicious breakfast (with everything homemade, yoghurt, marmalade, you get the drift) a nature walk, and discussing who this place would be perfect for, honeymooners, trekkers, birders, for a birthday or anniversary and for no reason at all quite simply, just because, well, why wouldn’t you send anyone here?
Baber Mahal, Kathmandu
And last but by no means least, came Baber Mahal in Kathmandu itself. This unique hotel comes with its own fascinating history, built and run by descendants of the longest ruling prime minister of Nepal Maharaja Chandra Shumshere Rana and his son Baber Shumshere Rana, it brings a whole new set of stories to Kathmandu, is an interesting contrast to the stay at Nanee in terms of the county’s history, story telling and location and is a great base to explore the other sights of Kathmandu from.
A huge thank you to Royal Mountain Travel Nepal for providing the transport and logistics.
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