As you know, I believe that most destinations should be a three-night stay, but not so with Udaipur, no sir/ma’am, not at all.
No, I think Udaipur should be a four-night stay and I’ve said the same for years, right back from when I started out as a tour operator. A holiday to India whilst being many things, is not, generally speaking, relaxing. It is fascinating, fabulous, extraordinary, baffling, unfathomable, but not relaxing. By the time clients have done their main circuit of Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, (hopefully with some off-beat RARE Hotels in there to make it more interesting and rewarding) they get to Udaipur feeling a little frazzled, rather like I was two days ago.
Two days ago, I landed up at Prem Kunj, just 35 minutes from old Udaipur by Badi Lake. Its been a busy trip (to say the least) and I was feeling somewhat frazzled. But then something strange happened. The moment I entered this boutique stay, I was, what’s the word, I’m not usually one to use a word like enchanted but I sort of was. It’s the kind of interior décor I wish I had the ability to create, it’s Indian interiors at its very Indian best, obvious but not at all over the top, elegant and yet homely.
It has been put together with a personal collection of art and collectables gathered over many years and which have come together seamlessly to entertain each seating area, corner and view-point. I think back to my home in Yorkshire with it’s plain magnolia walls and cringe. Prem Kunj is a veritable treasure of collectibles covering surfaces without cluttering them, it’s all rather clever. The rooms and dining areas surround lush gardens, and a deep indigo pool all of which are embraced by the curve of the Aravali range and Sajjangarh forest reserve.
But it’s more than just the stylish décor, there’s a vibe about the place that just makes you relax, want to sink into the nearest sofa, order a chai or nimbu pani and take a moment, or an hour, or actually a few days just to be at one with the surroundings.
Bird lovers are in for a treat as there’s a whole host of species of birds flitting around the gardens. Which brings me back to the décor in a segue that is more seamless than appears.
‘Who did all the art work? I asked gazing at the walls beautifully adorned with storks and sun birds,
‘Guests!’ came the rather surprising reply.
Where once there’d been blank (yet colourful) walls, now there were trees and birds. I mean, what fun? How many people do you know who allow strangers to just start painting their walls? It takes a special kind of person, and that, ladies and gentlemen, is your host, Bhupendra Singh. Prem Kunj is his creation and he overseas it with charm and grace and a team of Bhils all employed from the local village, trained and who do a wonderful job.
Being adjacent to the reserve, Bhupendra is also able to organise wonderful walks in nature to incredible viewpoints, which is a side very few get to see of this city as most just frantically dash around the old city and photograph the city palace before departing for home. But guests love it, after two weeks in a car and traipsing around monuments, Prem Kunj is the perfect end to a journey around Rajasthan, but only if done properly, and when I say done properly, this is what I’d recommend:
Day 01: Arrive. Check in. Order chai/lime soda/a beer, relax, dine, chat, retire.
Day 02: Head into Udaipur for a full day sightseeing. Come back, Order chai/lime soda/a beer/ G&T, relax, dine, chat, retire.
Day 03: An early morning walk in the forest reserve, return, relax by the pool with a book or your thoughts and lime soda or a G&T, relax……… you get the picture.
Day 04: Depart if you must, but trust me, a day on repeat of day 03 is an option which should be given serious consideration.
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