The last couple of days my plans have been affected by climate change. In this instance, unprecedented rains in the Little Rann of Kutch meant that the hotel had experienced flooding and LRK was underwater.
Rann Riders, my hotel of choice, were quick to fix the accommodation but we didn’t know if a visit into the LRK would be possible. However, having seen the wildlife unique to this region previously (it is famed for having the only wild population of Asiatic Wild Ass globally, as well as desert and Indian fox and many bird species), we decided to head off into the villages to meet some of the local tribes, the Rabari and semi nomadic Mir and Banjanias.
There are few ways to make a living here and it was estimated that 60% of the crops had been ruined. Despite that there were tractors laden with daily labourers heading out to see what could be salvaged. I have never met a more resourceful and resilient people than Indians living in rural communities.
Despite this being a harsh existence, material possessions being thin on the ground, and the recent floods, the warmth of the welcome by these communities was humbling and heartwarming. Of course, the Mir women wanted to show off the jewellery that they make, and who can blame them, given the current circumstances?
The kids met me with the usual exuberance and levels of excitement I’ve become used to and the men, the elderly of which are really the only ones still wearing traditional dress, were more than happy to be photographed.
The Mir women showed me their simple, homes made of sticks, mud, and tarpaulin, where goats and people live together, hence their charpois being taller than most. In the more structured village of the Rabaris we came across warrior stones, a travelling goldsmith, more excitable children and gracious elders.
It’s always fascinating to explore this region with Rizwan Malik Dasada, who has been with this hotel since its inception. He knows everyone!
A couple were trying to take buttermilk to their relatives, so of course we have them a lift. The next person we gave a lift to was an elderly Rabari, on his way to meet the elders for chai. The third was heading into the Rann, they leave cattle to graze in the monsoon & he’d heard that one of his cows was unwell.
Having dropped him at the edge of the Rann we decided to have a chai break. Rizwan told me he never tires of this stark landscape. The earth was starting to dry, in the foreground of a vivid green bett a mirage shimmered & there was the faintest hint of a breeze. Distant birdsong was the only sound, butterflies and dragonflies were flitting by.
I have stayed at Rann Riders previously, in 2010 and 2020, you can always judge lodge by it’s ability to retain staff and it’s wonderful to recognise familiar faces on each visit. The food is also a high point!
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