‘Stunning, absolutely stunning,’ that was my thought as I gazed down over the view from the fort.
Once again, my reputation for seeking out what’s different, preceded me. So, despite me thinking I was visiting a national park in India (never a chore I can assure you) it had been suggested that we veer off the normal safari drive and head up to the fort. A place which few people visit.
The panoramic view down over the park was actually breathtaking with ancient turrets providing perfect viewpoints and inevitable photo ops. Of course, being with a team of four naturalists, their instinct was to hang over the walls with binoculars and in under 3 minutes of our arrival had spotted a leopard. Of course they had, it’s what they do! There are still some villagers in the park, a very simple hamlet made from mud huts sits right at the bottom of the fort, and this park has a thriving leopard population with a census count of over 250, but it is these local people who know how to live peacefully with and respect wildlife and it works.
But, back to the main point, I’d known about Sariska, but why had I never been? Now before you non-wildlifers switch off at the mention of leopards (and yes, tigers will follow) I want you to bear with me, because I think I might have just had quite the find!
You see, Sariksa has never quite made it onto the key wildlife circuit, a circuit that has become dominated by the demand for tiger photographs. There’s one main reason for this. By 2004 all of the tigers had been poached out and if there’s one thing that will keep the wildlife brigade away, it is a guaranteed lack of tigers. But then, in 2009, ten were relocated from Ranthambhore, and numbers have steadily climbed since then to 43, making it India’s first successful tiger relocation project. We saw the pugmark of a second generation tiger here – now that is exciting!
So, given this success, why is it still relatively undiscovered? Well, it has to compete with Ranthambhore the ‘Popular kid in the class,’ and which is located on the Delhi/Agra circuit. So, Sariska despite still being in the Golden Triangle (on the Jaipur to Delhi route), remains the ‘Geeky school kid,’ no one wants to be friends with, but we’ve seen enough movies know that it’s this kid who quietly blossoms whilst no one else is looking.
Still, it is a fact that reputation, numbers of tiger sightings and the location dictates the business, and so the hotels here also have to try harder to win clients and also think beyond the norm. And this is what Sariska Utsav Camp, has done brilliantly. The location is spectacular, surrounded by ancient volcanic boulders, the same chain that you find in Hampi, parts of Tamil Nadu and Jawai. These ancient rock formations are stunning and provide incredible backdrops for some of Utsav Camp’s curated experiences, which are what sets it apart. (Read on!)
The camp itself is nestled within a lush forest – a testament to nature’s resilience. What was once barren land with just three trees has been transformed into a vibrant, verdant ecosystem teeming with life. Spacious, comfortable rooms have beds which face the forest (you’re almost in it) and sit outs looking out over nature. There is a wonderful swimming pool overlooked by the Aravilli’s, their Forest Lounge which looks out over the pool and hills beyond and which serves food all day long and a spa offering a wide variety of treatments. But then, and this is what I loved, a selection of wonderful experiences that would appeal to the wildlifer and non wildlifer alike.
Morning breakfasts in stunning ‘wilderness’ locations amidst rocks that are older than the dinosaurs! And yes, there may be a leopard looking down on you but who wouldn’t appreciate that? There’s similarly located afternoon teas and Boulder sundowners, wilderness drives, wilderness walks, horse riding on Marwari horses, visits to Neelkanth Temple, and then to finish the day, a twilight, boulder dinner or a star lit dinner in camp.
What I also discovered is Utsav’s commitment to empowering women in the field of wildlife tourism. Danhya, the second ever female naturalist trained by Taj in 2007, has blazed a trail in this male-dominated industry. Now serving as lodge manager, she has led wildlife groups for international companies, inspiring a new generation of female naturalists. Among them is one of their junior naturalists, promising young talent from Gujarat, whose exceptional knowledge, enthusiasm, and passion for nature mark her as one to watch.
So, after all that, who should come and stay here? Well, I think it’s perfect for someone like me, who loves nature and wildlife as an all-round experience, not just someone ‘looking for tigers.’ Whilst sightings are improving, leave them to be the icing on the cake. It’s great for people, who may not give two hoots about wildlife but who would love a beautiful, calm, natural location to spend a couple of nights in, where they can enjoy a memorable experience or two, at the start or end of a Golden Triangle/Rajasthan itinerary or beyond.
My only regret is not knowing about it when I lived in India, having resided in both Delhi and Jaipur it could well have become my weekend escape from the city, ‘cos lets face it, we all need that!
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